#Atomic burger cauliflower bun tv
Those who do, however, will love Atomic Burger, two nostalgic, Cowley-Road burger joints where every surface is covered in jigsaws, stuffed toys, posters and bric-a-brac on a sci-fi, 1980s pop, TV and superhero theme. 74 Cowley Road, 01865 203374, .uk Atomic Burgerĭo you come over all misty-eyed at The A-Team theme tune? Or collect Star Wars action figures? No, me neither. A sound track of sweet-natured US indie tunes completed the laid-back vibe. A creamy plateful with a pleasantly peppery edge, the rice had retained the correct residual bite and, even if the mushrooms did not quite deliver a significantly autumnal, woodland flavour, a generous glug of white wine and decent stock had given the dish good depth. I was confused as to why my wild mushroom risotto arrived topped with a mound of leaves which were themselves sprinkled with parmesan, but the risotto itself was a creditable bit of cooking. The short menu might feature an onion and pea tortilla or a spicy vegetable broth, followed by warm chicken salad, 74’s organic burger or bubble ’n’ squeak with a poached egg. This simple bistro is a good place to recover over weekend brunch (eggs Benedict, corned beef hash, French toast) and also serves a great-value midweek lunch (two courses £7.95). On a wet freezing day it was just the ticket, the only downer being that the hunks of rustic Pugliese bread that came with it arrived toasted but unbuttered.īreakfast £2.75-£7.95, lunch £4.95-£5.95. Rigorously seasoned and thick with herbs, it had the depth of flavour that suggested someone had patiently sweated down a mountain of onions and celery in its preparation. Breakfast and lunch dishes tend to pair great local ingredients (Willowbrook organic eggs, bacon from Sandy & Black rare-breed pigs) with those knockout breads.įrom a short lunch menu of stews, salads and sandwiches, a sample tub of tomatoey, mixed vegetable soup was fantastic. Displays of pain au levain and wild yeast sourdoughs, outsized buns and slices of far Breton prune cake, provide plenty of eye candy in this otherwise plain space. However, it is home to this cafe, a spin-off from one of Oxford’s best artisan bakeries. On the (concrete-clad) face of it, Little Clarendon Street, a rather ugly 1960s cut-through from town into Jericho, is of little interest to the passing tourist. Market Street, .uk The Natural Bread Company Ask the friendly staff for a recommendation. On reflection I might have done better with the red beef curry, an intriguing dish of egg and pork in cinnamon, or the spicy chicken with basil.
Nonetheless, it was tasty and filling (the vegetables were al dente and its sweet tamarind dressing packed an authentic heat) and, crucially, only £4.50 to take away. The pad thai could have done with a sprinkling of crispy fried onions, coriander or toasted peanuts and its sauce needed a bit more fish paste complexity. I wasn’t quite as impressed with the popular cafe and takeaway, Sasi Thai (hot dishes £4.50-£5.95). It would easily have passed muster in a pub or restaurant. A sample pot of venison and root vegetable stew was unusually accomplished, its quietly fruity flavour indicative of skilful deployment of juniper berries and red wine. It sells a selection of fresh, scratch-cooked stews (Kashmiri dhal, veggie chilli and more) and headline salad components (falafel, smoked mackerel, grilled halloumi), which you can pair with a bewildering selection of vegetables, further salads, sauces and toppings. Somehow I completely overlooked the brilliant, takeaway-only Alpha Bar (dishes £3.95-£4.90). In the 2010 Oxford budget eats guide, I flagged up Pieminister and Fasta Pasta in the indoor market. The belly was £9.50, so I had to drink tap water to bring it in under budget, but it is well worth that sacrifice to eat such food. Two rectangles of this magnificent meat had been stacked in pool of “Oli’s sauce”, an electrifying soy-based broth, and each mouthful was a rollercoaster of hot, zingy, sweet and savoury flavours – but all in perfect harmony. That crackling had been further smothered in a freshly-blitzed paste which – as is the Thai way - seemed to contain a 101 ingredients from across the chilli/ lemongrass spectrum.
Despite the delicious crust at its edges, the meat was meltingly tender within, while its crackling was like lacquer. The compressed belly had been very slowly roasted to something approaching perfection. From a short daily menu, which included sweet chilli prawns, aubergine curry, and chicken with garlic, pepper and coriander, I opted for a sensational plate of belly pork with rice. Oli’s Thai lives up to the hype, and then some. The short answer is: get down here, even if you have to crawl over broken glass.
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